Fiji - Vatulele Island Resort

The Fijian archipelago of around 330 islands lies at the crossroads of the South Pacific. The early Fijians called their home 'Viti', but their South Pacific neighbours, the Tongans, referred to it as 'Fiji', and it was this pronunciation that was adopted by Captain James Cook and gave the islands their modern name. In the days of sailing ships, they were also known as the Cannibal Isles, and were avoided by mariners because of their fierce warriors and treacherous waters. In the age of jumbo jets and global travel, however, the archipelago has become the tourist hub of the South Pacific. More than 85 flights a week land at Nadi on the main island of Viti Levu, which nonetheless remains relatively unspoilt with its mountain rivers and waterfalls, rainforest and palm-fringed beaches. It's jut a 30-minute hob by light aircraft to Vatulele, where you genuinely do leave the world behind you.

Located on one of the southernmost islands in the Fijian group. Vatulele is the vision of Emmy award-winning Australian television producer Henry Crawford, who has used his creative talents to conjure up the essence of romance without a hint of commercialism. In keeping with his philosophy of creating an oasis of total escape, there are no money transactions on the island, and telephones, newspapers, radios and televisions are banned. Every aspect of a stay here, including French Champagne, is included in the initial cost, with the exception of scuba diving and massages. The island is similar in shape to a footprint and 32 sq km (12 sq miles) in area, and the 18 villas, or 'bures', of the resort are spread out along a stretch of gleaming white-sand beach, fringed by a turquoise lagoon and set against a jungle backdrop. The only inhabitants of the island live in four villages. Most of the resort's staff come from these villages, and their natural gentleness and good humour never fail to captivate guests at Vatulele.

Vatulele makes no attempt to offer anything but a thoroughly heartfelt Fijian-style nuptial ceremony, to which the warmth and enthusiasm of the local staff contribute hugely. Once the bride and groom arrive on the main island, they are escorted by a representative of Vatulele Resort to the Register Office in Nadi in order to complete their application for a wedding license and confirm their single status. A passport, original birth certificates and, if previously married, proof of annulment, divorce or death of former spouse, are needed. The wedding can take place at any time during the 28 days after application for a license. Couples must stay in Fiji for a minimum of six days, and Vatulele recommends that they have at least six days before the wedding to acclimatize, get to know everyone and become familiar with the traditions that accompany the big day.

Fijian weddings are base on English law, and are therefore legally binding and recognized worldwide. A wonderfully warm and welcoming Fijian Methodist minister lives on the island and the service used is from the Uniting Church. Catholic or alternative services are not available. The aim at Vatulele is that no guest should ever see more than one wedding ceremony during their stay, so a maximum of three ceremonies a month are performed. Booking well in advance is therefore highly recommended.

There is a real excitement and sense of occasion on the island as a wedding approaches. Once couples have arrived at the resort, they discuss the finer details of the big day with the management, including wedding bouquets - usually made from whatever flowers are in season on the island - and photography. If couples want professional shots, a photographer has to be flown in at extra expense; otherwise they can rely on staff and fellow guests to take pictures. Because Vatulele is such a remote location, most couples also choose members of staff or guests as witnesses rather than bringing friends and family with them. This adds to the real castaway-wedding feel, and is perfect for couples wanting to escape the formal strictures of a white wedding at home.

Vatulele accommodates just 38 guests at any one time, so weddings are always intimate. The service is tremendously atmospheric. All ceremonies are held on the beach in front of the resort at sunset. The bride arrives like Cleopatra on a long boat adorned with exotic flowers and palm leaves, under a white awning to protect her from the sun. Fijian warriors in ceremonial dress form her escort, to the sounds of the Fijian choir gathered on the beach. The bride is then carried on to the beach, and the ceremony begins under a floral archway constructed from island flowers and palm leaves, with an altar in front. Sometimes the staff really go to town and erect a whole church, complete with windows and a door, all made from plaited coconut leaves and flowers. The Fijian minister is usually dressed like a British vicar from the waist up, but as this is Fiji, from the waist down he wears a fetching grey sarong and sandals. The ceremony is perfectly timed to end as the sun sets.

Once the couple are man and wife, the island staff will forward the newlyweds' signed documents to the mainland for processing. Copies of the wedding certificate will be mailed to the couple approximately four weeks from this date.

The newlyweds and all the resident guests at Vatulele are then invited to a sumptuous feast on the beach, by the light of the moon and flickering candles and lanterns. The party begins with a kava ceremony, traditionally held to mark any important occasion or to welcome guests to the village. Kava, a root vegetable that looks like yam, is mashed up and mixed with water in the wooden bowl. The elders sit around the bowl and present to visitor or celebrant with a coconut shell that can be filled to 'low tide' or 'high tide'. The liquid tastes like cold milky tea with a hint of cinnamon and is apparently mildly narcotic. After a few bowls, everyone feels happy and relaxed and in the perfect mood for a Meke, or Fijian dancing. The wedding feast is prepared in traditional 'lovo pits', in which the food is cooked in pots underground. (For other occasions, it is worth noting that the cuisine at the resort, ranging from Californian to Thai, Japanese, Australasian and Indian, is internationally renowned.) French Champagne flows, and an informal wedding cake follows. After the big day, newlyweds can hide away like lovebirds in their bure or explore the islands. A perfect Robinson Crusoe day is a trip to the deserted Nookie Nookie Island for a secluded picnic for two.

All the accommodation bures face the Southern Pacific Ocean and are protected by a magnificent barrier reef that forms and extensive lagoon in front of the resort. Spacious and with easy access to the water, each bure has its own stretch of white sand. Doors open on to an expansive terrace, and from the living room you walk up three steps to bedroom, which features a king-size bed and a dressing area. In addition, an architecturally dramatic, two-storey villa called The Point stands on the highest spot, where it enjoys a commanding view of the lagoon and the entire length of the beach. Although The Point does not have direct access to the beach, it has its own freshwater swimming pool, plunge pool and secluded sundeck. For wedding couples, the ultimate in luxury is to book the much sought-after Grand Honeymoon Bure, added in 2004. Tucked away at the far end of the beach, couples can revel in its idyllic seclusion and be assured of some privacy away from other guests or even friends and family if they are staying in the same resort. Painted a vibrant pink and yellow, this intimate bure has its own private plunge pool and dedicated butler service so you don't even have to venture outside. Known locally as 'Vale Vinqi' (pronounced 'varlay vingy') or the 'pink house', it also has its own private courtyard, deck, two indoor and two outdoor showers and a cosy dining area - the perfect honeymoon location.

When the honeymoon is over, so to speak, the Fijians will break into their traditional song of farewell, the 'Isa Lei', which is guaranteed to elicit a tear or two and the promise of an anniversary visit.

BEST TIME OF YEAR TO GO
May to November.

CEREMONIES
Religious, conducted by a Methodist (Uniting Church) minister.

PRE-WEDDING RESIDENCY
Couples must be in Fiji for a total of six days, and can get married at any time within 28 days of obtaining the application for a license.